Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Spaces
Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds form.
It is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However one local grower has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with round purplish grapes on a sprawling garden plot situated between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just above Bristol town centre.
"I've noticed people concealing heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," states the grower. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who produce wine from four hidden urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and community plots throughout the city. The project is too clandestine to have an formal title so far, but the collective's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
City Wine Gardens Across the World
So far, the grower's allotment is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which features better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of Paris's historic artistic district area and over 3,000 grapevines overlooking and within the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Vineyards help urban areas stay greener and more diverse. These spaces preserve open space from development by establishing permanent, yielding agricultural units within cities," says the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a product of the soils the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who tend the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, community, landscape and history of a urban center," adds the president.
Unknown Polish Variety
Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he grew from a plant left in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the rain comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack once more. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he says, as he removes damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Efforts Throughout the City
Additional participants of the group are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of wine from France and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from approximately 50 vines. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so evocative," she says, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in 2018. She experienced an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can continue producing from the soil."
Sloping Vineyards and Natural Production
Nearby, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated over one hundred fifty plants perched on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a city street."
Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is picking bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of plants slung across the hillside with the assistance of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can sell for more than £7 a serving in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually make quality, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of producing wine."
"When I tread the grapes, the various wild yeasts are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," says Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and then add a lab-grown yeast."
Difficult Environments and Creative Solutions
In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental local weather is not the sole challenge faced by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a barrier on