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When curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary triumph.